Sunday, May 9, 2010

A Favorite Morning

I'm attempting to stay awake until 10:00 pm, but the jet lag has hit me HARD today.  Whew.   One more blog post before bed...

I love reviewing Paris.

On May 3rd we stopped by Cler Office again to buy a few more stationary goods.   The friendly shopkeeper remembered us, greeting us with a big smile and bonjour.  She threw a gift in my bag - some extra ink cartridges for the pen I had purchased on the first visit, and I asked her if I could take a photo.  She answered, in French, "usually not... but for you... yes."


This is a store I could spend HOURS discovering.


Isn't she adorable?

Next we got onto Bus 69 to head back to the cemetery and then to the Louvre.

I spied a cathedral out the bus window and we jumped off, spur of the moment.  The rain was pouring down as we entered the giant church.  A male voice was chanting as a mass was ending.   It was a magical moment.

The photos of Basilique Sainte Clotilde are here.

This was honestly one of my favorite times.  It was so amazingly huge and ornate, dark, a respite from the rain...and more.  It was ours.  We had discovered it without any input from Rick Steves or any other previous Paris traveler.  And the little park outside - what a treasure.

It was also really refreshing to be nearly alone.  After the hustle and bustle of Sacre Coeur and Notre Dame, this quiet basilica was so reverent and awe inspiring.  The quiet did me good.

Such a lovely way to spend a rainy morning.

Musee du Louvre

Photos of my HOUR in the Louvre are here.  Frank went there another day too, and did a 1.5 hour guided tour during which he saw the Mona Lisa.  Since my time was so short I skipped her and went for the sculptures, which I adore.  I had seen the Mona Lisa in 1980 - I remember that visit!

Although I was not really excited about going to the Louvre, (it overwhelms me), I really enjoyed it once inside.  I have become a fan of sculpture.  In the museums, on the street corners, on the buildings, in the parks - Paris is full of sculpture.  Such passion chiseled into stone.

And once inside, the pyramid made sense.  I remember seeing it in the movie The DaVinci Code and actually googling it because I could not believe they would add THAT to the Louvre.  But it is amazing to be inside it and look out, and it is a GREAT landmark on the maps and out the windows once you're inside the enormous museum.

One hour of Louvre was enough for me, but what an hour it was!

More Photos

Here are a few more photos from April 29, 2010.

And from April 30, 2010.

Enjoy.  Let me know that these links work.  Thanks!

Le Cordon Bleu

Well, here I am at the Kalahari in the Dells - talk about culture shock.  This ain't Paris!

I have a few minutes so I thought I'd post some photos and thoughts on Le Cordon Bleu - the world famous cooking school where Julia Child became passionate about French cooking.  We had signed up for "An Evening in Honor of Julia Child, " a three hour demonstration held on our last night in Paris.

Getting there was half the battle.  The Metro was not a problem, but after that the small map from the school which only had intermittent streets listed was not so helpful.  I knew we were only blocks from the school, and *no one* knew what we were talking about.  I guess it's not *that* famous.

We found it, got registered, and looked around.




We received folders with the recipes for the three dishes:  a rice ring with vegetables, Boeuf Bourguignon (BB), and flan.  I was *so excited* that BB was one of the demonstrations as this seems to me to be her signature dish, and was a big part of the movie.  We bought matching aprons in the gift shop and then were shown to a garden room to wait.


Students were walking through, and this young man had finished a multi day chocolate sculpting class and was proudly taking pics of his creation.  Wow!











When we were finally ushered into the classroom, along with about 45 others, we saw the huge counter and stove, under the demonstration mirror.  And all the supplies ready and waiting.




So, basically, this French cooking stuff is a breeze if you have a huge counter, six burners, 100 pots and pans and two assistants.  Pas de probleme.

As they cooked I took notes.  Five pages of tiny writing notes.  I learned a ton about good cooking.  I also learned that BB takes a day.  Really.  By the time you had all that prep work done, that's what it would take.

We learned how to brown flour, similar to nuts.  Who knew?

At the end of two hours we got to taste, and MY OH MY it was as good as it smelled.   The aromas were unbelievable.


The photo above appears upside down due to the mirror...  These pots are all ingredients being pre cooked to add to the rice or the BB.


Sliced day old bread brushed with melted butter for crouton-crackers with the BB.  (The translator told us that chefs now use baguettes, but they were following Julia's methods)

And yes, there was a lot of butter flowing.  But not great quantities at any one time.  A little bit used often.


The raspberry flans were done first.  YUM.  And yes, I do believe we will make flan.  Soon.  It appeared totally do-able.  So, invite us for dinner and we'll bring flan.


When the rice was done, to be served as an appetizer, the chef showed us how to plate it.  Mais oui.  A mold in the center of the plate was filled with rice, and then the veggies placed around it.  And, by the way, this rice was a creamy dreamy dish - the *best* I have ever tasted.  He sauteed it gradually in chicken broth.  Yes, the rice dish is do-able.  We'll try it soon.


Chef said that good quality ingredients are key.


The finished appetizer.  We clapped.  He bowed.  This is serious stuff.  How can I get my kids to clap when I serve dinner?  Maybe I'll try bowing first...


He added a bit of grated fresh parmesan to the rice to allow it to be creamier.  We all got a wee dish to savor.

The plated Boeuf Bourguignon with heart shaped crouton crackers, of course.  Clap.  Bow.


Chef assisted with the portioning of his beloved boeuf.  By the way, before we ever started, the boeuf (shoulder roast - a cheaper cut) had been marinating for 24 hours.


Brie was served between the rice and the boeuf.  Creamy and amazing.  Red wine too.  I must have been so excited about the wine that I forgot to take a photo...


At last.  My own to try.  Chef did not mix all the ingredients together, by the way.  He plated the beef, then added the veggies, each simmering in their own concoctions.  And some fresh bacon bits which he had painstakingly boiled and then skimmed away the excess fat and salt.  Bacos will simply not do.



A petite portion of raspberry flan finished the evening.  Mmm Mmm Mmm.


If I get really ambitious I will type up my notes - I wrote down everything that man said.  And my neighbor wants us to make the meal - a kind of team effort.  I'm up for that.


We quickly exited and headed to the Metro.  Surely we had to see the twinkling lights one last time.




Plenty of time.  Ah, au revoir mon tour.  (and yes - we bought 15 more keychains...)




My friend Gwen told me yesterday it was quite obvious that I was enamored with my tower.  Oui?


PS  Yes, I know this post is a hodge podge of fonts and sizes...sorry...I keep trying to edit it, to no avail.

Thursday, May 6, 2010

What I Love about Paris

  • The Eiffel Tower.
  • People walking with baguettes in their hands or sticking out of their bags.  I even saw one man in full serious running gear running with a baguette in each hand.  Ha.
  • Children chattering in French.
  • Street signs on the old buildings - you know just where to look to get your bearings.
  • The Eiffel Tower.
  • The Metro, the RER (train) and the bus system.  You can get anywhere.  I am directionally challenged in a big way, but I simply needed a Metro map and all was well.
  • White dishes.  Simple plain white dishes to highlight the carefully arranged food.
  • Pitchers of warm milk to add to your coffee.  (little white pitchers, mais oui!)
  • The Eiffel Tower.
  • Croissants.
  • Markets everywhere.  Fresh produce, fresh meats, fresh cheeses, fresh flowers.  FRESH.
  • Fountains, statues and wrought iron gates.  Ooooh...I love all that wrought iron.  
  • Parks and green spaces.
  • The Eiffel Tower.
  • Dogs.  So many petite pooches on leashes.
  • Cobblestone streets.
  • Tiny sidewalk stores - you pop in, grab a baguette or a newspaper and pop back out. 
  • The Eiffel Tower.
  • Walking everywhere.
  • Friendly people IF you talk to them.  They don’t engage first, but if I asked a question everyone bent over backwards to help.
  • French.  The challenge and fun of engaging in the simplest conversations.  Inflections, hand gestures, smiles, and laughing eyes - I so enjoyed using my French, and even in a week it improved ten fold.
  • Menus on chalkboards.
  • Un carafe d’eau. (glass pitcher of tap water served with wine glasses).  It added elegance to our meals.
  • The Eiffel Tower.  There was a grandeur to seeing the Eiffel Tower each day.  It is so immense, and so strikingly different than the stone buildings and monuments.  It is magical at night.  And there is something very comforting in knowing that if you can just get to the Eiffel Tower you can find your apartment.  We’d be in a different section of town and suddenly there it was, peeking over a building.  Home base.  I can’t imagine not staying in the 7th arrondissement if and when we return.

Flying Home


We have left Paris. Sigh. We are 33,000 feet over the Atlantic.

I did not blog in the airport as planned for various reasons. First of all, it took forever to get to gate E33. We stood in the wrong line for 45 minutes which certainly contributed to the *forever* of it. Also, security was tight, and someone ahead of us forgot a bag, so there at my feet when it came time to go through the scanners was an unclaimed bag. That caused a stir.



We had arrived 3 hours early, so I still would have had over an hour were it not for all the distractions everywhere. I had to wander. Two more Lauderees, just in our terminal. Yes, I bought one more macaroon - a lemon one - and we enjoyed it. It was very much similar to lemon merigue pie. (by the way, we only ate ONE of our previous eight - we kept forgetting to bring them with us on our day trips. Sigh. They are still in the little fridge on Rue Amelie.)




Macaroons are a *big deal* in Paris.  There was a chocolatier at the airport too...this is one of their signs.  In English since this airport terminal serves the United States.


By the way, I am posting this on May 6 - from Greendale.  In case you're wondering how I fared with all these temptations, I *lost* two pounds on the trip.  Walking 3-7 miles per day is the way to go!

Anyhow, there were many designer stores in the airport. I wandered about and took photos while Frank read and sat with our carryons. I did buy one small hardcover book - “Monuments that Tell Stories of Paris,” a children’s sized book with children’s story book illustrations, yet with quite a bit of facts and information on 26 monuments. I just scanned through it, and am amazed that we only saw about half of these highlights!




Obviously, we’re going to have to go back. !!! Actually, I’m quite sure I will - I have bonded with Paris. I hope to spend a week in the little Rue Amelie apartment with girlfriends in the coming years. Frank is more interested in going to *new* places, although he did mention the possibility of us returning to Paris to celebrate our 50th birthdays. Truly, I loved Paris. It is magical.

Oh, I was also able to buy us each one last croissant.  Au revoir croissants.


Au revoir Pain au Chocolat.



Now I have time to blog. On the DOWN side the plane is not full so I could not volunteer to get bumped and get a free ticket. (I would have!) (My carry on is packed with all the overnight necessities!) On the UP side the plane is not full so we were able to move to a section of three seats and have an empty seat between us - we each have an aisle seat. Our stuff is under the extra seat so we have leg room! What a difference a bit of empty space makes. Frank is currently watching the first of FOUR in flight movies, (Dear John) and we were just served wine and peanuts. I’m going to scan through my photos, my little black *Paris* moleskine and my larger travel journal, and write all I can so as to preserve these wonderful moments. I’ll blog topically so you can read whatever interests you. Or just look at the pretty pictures. Enjoy!

Postscript: My glass of red wine tipped. Splattered on my laptop, on my pants, scarf, jacket, and dripped into my bag. More memories - red wine stains. SIGH. After a moment of panic I knew my laptop was okay. I had purchased a plastic keyboard cover (made for this model) at the Apple store just a couple weeks ago, so I just peeled it up and wiped it off. Thank you God. But it did take the wind out of my blogging sails for a few hours, and I put everything away once I had wiped it off. And now, back at it, I won’t even sip a water… Only an inch of wine spilled but it managed to get on EVERYTHING. Live and learn.

Photos

On the plane I sorted through TWO (of eight) days of photos and picked the best and labelled them.

So, you can find ARRIVAL DAY highlights here

and DAY TWO highlights here On this post is a short video of the Eiffel Tower lights twinkling. Sorry it's sideways - I don't know how to turn a movie, and I filmed it holding my camera vertically. Can you get the movie to work? Give it time to download after you select it.

Please let me know if this works! Thanks.