Another day unplanned...

First, let me say...my feet hurt.  We just did some computing, along with google maps, and came up with a minimum of 7 miles walked today.  We weren't lost, but kept going just a little farther...trying to find the bus or the metro or whatever...and walked and walked and walked.  And then walked some more. I'm guessing we've walked at least 3 miles every day, but today was a bit over the top.

We had a leisurely morning.  I began with my journal and coffee, just like at home.

Frank went to the market, and bought a bit more than usual since we do not know what will be open later today, on this huge holiday May 1st (museums are closed on two days: May 1 and December 25!) or tomorrow, Sunday.

Personally, I think champagne and lilacs are very practical purchases.

We left the apartment about 12:30 pm, just as the maid was arriving.   We walked through the Rue Cler market, which was HOPPING!  Wow.  The 1er Mai is one happy holiday around here.  Interestingly, people are out all over the place selling small bunches of Lily of the Valley and big bunches of lilacs.  So lovely.  We enjoyed walking through the very lively street, where not only were there throngs of people, but many more vendors displayed their fresh foods.  The stores were closed, but most of the cafes were open.  It was so full of joie de vivre.  People were celebrating a day off and the week end.

We bought some of that huge white asparagus.

Dogs are everywhere, and welcome in restaurants and stores.  I miss Boomer.  (Melissa - I found a pug to pet!)

the fromagerie man knows Frank now...  he's a regular cheese connoisseur!

No, we did not buy the escargot...

We walked to the bikes - the Velibs.

Unfortunately we attempted two credit cards and two debit cards a few times each before figuring out that the Velib machines won't take American cards.  And no cash, either. There is some new system, explained in the tour books, that includes some coding which is not on our credit cards.  No wonder we could not buy metro passes with them either.  We wish we had read that sooner!

So... instead, we got on a city bus in search of Les Deux Magots - a famous cafe known for hosting such literary greats as Hemmingway, Victor Hugo and Oscar Wilde.  I read in her "My Life in France" autobiography that Julia and Paul Child enjoyed going there as well.

We found it, and stayed well over 2 hours.  First we had to wait for an open table, and then it was another 20 minutes to order, then 25 to get the food, etc. etc.  It was packed.  And I LOVED it.  People everywhere, live music across the street...just so energetic and fun.

We had our main meal, and then shared a coffee and dessert.  We sat in the area to the left below, by the umbrellas.

Frank had a Croque Monsieur (grilled ham and cheese) and chips

I had a tomato and mozzarella salad.  Pretty, eh?

Then the dessert tray came.  I let Frank choose, and he went for le chocoat.  Mmmmm.

We researched the area (we always have *the book* with us!)  and decided to head to Luxembourg gardens.  Directly across the street from Les Deux Magots stood an old church, so we wandered over there.  Now we have read that it is the oldest church in Paris!  Dating from the 11th century, St. Germain-des-Pres was dark and wonderful.

We walked up the street to St. Sulpice, it is known for its amazing organ.  It is also featured in The DaVinci Code as the place with the hidden keystone.  (the church denies that though!)  It is largely under renovation on the outside.

My brother Jon would love to play this pipe organ!

From there we went to Luxembourg Garden and walked around for an hour.  It is a 60 acre garden with a palace (Marie de Medici's), fountains, statues, flowers, a pond, pony rides, a carousel, a huge pond,  tennis, card playing areas, and we even saw bocci ball.  Families were out in droves.  It is *the* place to be on 1er mai.  (Premiere de May)  Who knew?

From there we planned to return to the cemetery - Frank decided he did want to see it - but on the bus he read in the infamous Rick Steves' guidebook that it closes at 6 pm.  So we got off at the Bastille.  Not the prison (long gone) but the monument.

Needing to regroup again, we stopped at a cafe for a Coca Light (Diet Coke) and un bierre pression (tap beer).  The twenty-ish crowed was out partying, many drinking red drinks.  I asked a busgirl what that drink was, and it is called a Monaco - beer, soda water and grenadine!  Hmmmm.

We walked through the Marais district, one of the nicer areas in town.  We came very near to seeing Victor Hugo's apartment - we were in the right square of buildings, but did not come upon his actual place.  It was not open for touring due to the holiday.

We were aiming for Notre Dame which we knew was a 30 minute walk.  Actually, we wanted to at least find Sainte-Chappelle - a cathedral known for its stained glass windows which is near the Notre Dame.

We walked and walked and walked.

By the time we found Notre Dame and then Sainte-Chappelle (which by the way is hidden in the middle of the Paliais de Justice and very easy to miss) it was late enough to stay and see the Notre Dame lit up.  We knew from the boat ride last night that the lights come on about 9:30 pm.  So, we went in search of dinner.

We had this view from our table...

French onion soup (mais oui!), baguettes and oysters!  Oysters on the half shell were on my MUST DO list, and tonight was the night.  With champagne (me) and beer (Frank) it was a light and lovely dinner.

While we were dining the lights came on, and I dashed across the street to capture the amazing light of dusk and the Notre Dame.

One thing about dining in Paris - you can not be in a hurry.  It kind of takes forever to get a waiter, then to get the drinks, to take the order...etc.  And a waiter will never bring you "l'addition" (the bill) until you ask.  The French eat slowly and well.

Well, after we had taken 100 more photos of the Notre Dame we went to find the Metro.  By then the busses had stopped running.  But Metros are hard to find, and when we went to the one we had scouted out earlier we found the only option going in our direction was a train an hour later.  So we thought we'd walk to the next Metro.  And we walked and walked.  We definitely walked off the chocolate dessert from lunch.  And then some.  By the way, THAT is why the French can eat so well and still stay slim.  They walk.  They ride bikes.  They smoke (like chimneys).  That must add up to thin.

Finally we found a Metro and took two lines back to Invalides.  No energy left to walk to the Eiffel Tower - but we did say good night to it on Rue de Saint Dominique as we made our way home.  (This photo is a few blocks from our apartment)  We got home at about 11:30 pm.

Our apartment was all cleaned up, with new sheets and towels and everything put in place.  C'est bien!

Another unplanned but amazing day.  Tomorrow we are going to Versailles.  But, things rarely go as planned in Paris, so, who knows?   Bon nuit!